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Corking

56 bytes added, 16:23, 16 December 2017
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Corking and caging does require some more special equipment. Most wine corkers are designed to push the cork all the way into the bottle, which is not what you want. Brewers will at least want a [[Floor Corker|floor corker]] for standard wine bottling. These corkers are designed to push the cork entirely into the bottle but they can be modified/adjusted to control the cork depth and leave some cork protruding from the bottle, which is necessary for caging. Bench corkers such as the Colonna capper/corker work as well. Champagne floor corkers are available and make the task of partly rather than fully inserting corks easier, though they are more expensive. It is difficult to control the exact depth of the cork with a two arm corker, and we do not recommend this for corking and caging.
The following gives a step by step process for corking and caging with a non-champagne floor corker. For a more detailed description with pictures, see [http://horscategoriebrewing.blogspot.com/2013/11/corking-your-homebrew.html Dave Janssen's blog post about corking]. The more common floor corkers work by both compressing the cork and pushing it into the bottle with the movement of the arm. In order to leave the cork partly exposed, and to control the exposed cork level, place a standard carboy bung on the rod which pushes the cork. This positioning can be adjusted as needed. Push the cork into the bottle until you reach the bung, then bring the arm all the way up. Remove the bung and lower the spring-loaded pedestal holding the bottle. Then, while holding the bottle with one hand, lower the corking arm completely and bring the bottle down, letting the cork be pushed fully out of the compression section of the corker. Play around with cork depth to find the right amount for you for ease of removal based on your corks, bottles and carbonation levels. The amount of cork sticking out should be more than how it appears when it is caged, as the cork is vertically compressed or 'mushroomed' during the caging process. This mushrooming can be accomplished by hand, though be aware that flaws in the bottle may cause the neck to break, which would be a very dangerous situation if you are applying the downward force by your hand. It can more easily and safely be applied with a bench capper. Put the cage on the cork and compress both with a bench capper. Hold the bench capper arm in place with your shoulder/armpit, leaving both hands free to orient and twist the cage. Special cage twisting tools are available, though pens such as sharpies or some interchangeable screwdrivers are about the right size. You could also use twist lock pliers if you have them aroundSee [[Corking#Mushrooming|Mushrooming]] below.
Some corkers may leave a crease or indentation in the cork from the compression mechanism. This is generally not a problem but it if severe enough it may result in leaking of gas or liquid <ref>[https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilkTheFunk/permalink/1441897779171765/ Mitch E's MTF post]</ref>
====Mushrooming====
"Mushrooming" is the perception of the compression of the top part of the cork that protrudes out of the bottle. Some people believe that this compression is due to high carbonation in the bottle pushing the cork out of the bottle, which is held in by the cage. However, in many cases the cork may not actually be compressed, but appears to be compressed by the cage (see [http://www.notcot.com/images/2009/09/gatinoismain.jpg this image] for an example). A more likely explanation is that the lip of the bottle compresses the "leg" of the cork, making the top portion look like a mushroom. Some people mushroom claim that mushrooming makes removing the cork manually with a benchcappereasier, while others say that mushrooming is not necessary. See [https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilkTheFunk/permalink/1920123874682484/ this MTF thread] for more information. This mushrooming can be accomplished by hand, though be aware that flaws in the bottle may cause the neck to break, which would be a very dangerous situation if you are applying the downward force by your hand. It can more easily and safely be applied with a bench capper. Put the cage on the cork and compress both with a bench capper. Hold the bench capper arm in place with your shoulder/armpit, leaving both hands free to orient and twist the cage. Special cage twisting tools are available, though pens such as sharpies or some interchangeable screwdrivers are about the right size. You could also use twist lock pliers if you have them around.
===Cork and cap===

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