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* [http://bootlegbiology.com/diy/capturing-yeast/ Bootleg Biology] defines three methods of catching a wild yeast.
* [http://suigenerisbrewing.blogspot.ca/2014/12/two-new-videos.html Bryan Heit's] video tutorial for catching wild yeast from fruit or from the air.
* David Thornton of [[SouthYeast Labs]] describes his favorite method of catching wild yeast/bacteria: "Most of our cultures are taken from over ripened fruit macerated in its own juice and left to ferment 24 hours at the location in a small erlynmeyer with a perforated cap. Always grows something, and almost always get an alcohol fermenting strain, and of the alcohol fermenting strains id say 10% are worth brewing with. I like this method because I can stir my loop and do a streak on regular UBA aerobically, then pull favorable looking colonies for yeast and lacto and do a quadrant streak on selective media for isolation." <refname="Thornton">[https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilkTheFunk/permalink/1141930175835195/?comment_id=1142286619132884&reply_comment_id=1142394019122144&total_comments=4&comment_tracking=%7B%22tn%22%3A%22R6%22%7D Conversation with David Thornton on MTF. 09/06/2015.]</ref>
===Isolating===
While using agar plates to isolate yeast colonies is the most effective way to culture wild yeast, it is not the only way. Wild yeast should first be caught using DME wort as outlined in [http://bootlegbiology.com/diy/capturing-yeast/ Bootleg Biology's ''Method 1'' or ''Method 2'']. Hopping the wort will help decrease bacteria if that is desired. The wort's pH should be lowered to 4.5 or lower with lactic acid to avoid bacteria as much as possible. Molds may still grow in the yeast starter even with the lower pH, and should be removed by scraping them off of the surface of the wort. Signs of a small krausen within 1-3 days is a good sign that viable wild yeast has been collected. After another few days, the yeast will start dropping to the bottom of the collection vessel <ref name="manoaction">[http://www.homebrewtalk.com/collecting-wild-yeast.html Collecting Wild Yeast. Manoaction. Homebrewtalk. Oct 30, 2012.]</ref>.
Once the wort has fermented out (allowing 2 weeks total is a good rule of thumb), decant the beer and pitch the collected yeast into 500ml of starter wort, again lowering the pH of the starter wort to 4.5 with lactic acid. After the starter wort has been fermented, the yeast should have enough of a population to ferment out a 1 gallon batch of wort. Keep the recipe of the wort simple, and in the 1.050 gravity range. The yeast cell count should be high enough at this point to out-compete bacteria, and lower the pH of the wort within a few days. The pH of the 1 gallon batch therefore does not need to be lowered, although the brewer may choose to do so anyway. After fermenting out the 1 gallon batch of beer, first smell the beer. If it smells like feces or vomit, do not sample it and throw it away. If the beer smells ok, feel free to sample the beer to see if the wild yeast produced a good tasting beer. David Thornton from [[SouthYeast Labs]] estimates that only about 10% of yeast that can fully attenuate produces favorable results, so failures are to be expected (keep trying!) <ref name="Thornton"></ref>. Fermenting a few batches of beer at different temperatures is a useful method for identifying the ideal fermentation temperature range for the yeast. Wild yeasts can be highly or moderately estery, or could have undesirable flavors <ref name="manoaction"></ref>.
===Safety===